With surgical precision, Sarah Burton’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show for Alexander McQueen had a seductive menace that made women (and men) “taller, leaner, more dangerous”
That idea was most compelling in the cut – this collection proved that few designers in the world today can tailor like Burton and her ateliers. The precision of her cut sent garments spiralling around the body, but it never felt overwrought or overworked. Orchids splayed across dresses were beautiful, but look again and they resembled exposed innards.
McQueen is a young label, but it has a heritage that can compete with the big guys. It also has a unique, if sad, succession story – and given that Burton was Lee McQueen’s right-hand woman, and friend, for almost 15 years before his death, it is a natural response to look forwards, with a trepidation of what you will find if you glance back.
There’s no chance of that here. What Burton’s collection felt like was a casting-off of fuss and complexity and a cutting-through to the very heart of the meaning of Alexander McQueen, its relevance in contemporary fashion and its place in the pantheon of the greats. It had strength yet fragility, a seductive menace. And more than any archival re-embracing, it had a sense of what feels right and relevant today, not just for McQueen but for fashion. It was, in short, a masterful anatomy lesson.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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