Rick Owens is one of fashion\u2019s true renegades; since 1994, when the American designer launched his first store on Hollywood Boulevard, he has carved a singular path with collections that defy categorisation. In fact, when it comes to describing his clothing\u00a0\u2013 which people have, variously, as moody, gothic, brutal \u2013...
. He calls it his ‘concrete palace’, ‘insulated, isolated, removed, and remote’. Speaking from its terrace in the run-up to his S/S 2023 men’s collection – which will be shown today in Paris – Owens invites Wallpaper* home.I am on my terrace in Paris overlooking the gardens of the Ministry of Defence – the roses are just starting to bloom and the wisteria that always seems to struggle a bit looks lush and confident this season.
There is one weekend before every collection when I am in Italy with the factory to myself and gather all my notes and fabrics and flowers and candles and cookies and movies and music and shuffle it all together and print it out and cut and tape and staple and end up with the seed of a hint of a mood of a collection. This is what I present to the team the following Monday and the collection evolves from there.
Afterwards, I wondered if it was all for the best since using these creatures might have felt too gimmicky.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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