Madrid-based Australian designer Edward Cuming wants to strip away the formality of classic menswear for something softer, more fluid
Jacket, £700; shirt, £800; jumper , £515; trousers, £675, all by Edward Cuming. Shoes, £349, by Hereu.Whether it’s a call or response to the world around us, Edward Cuming is intent on stripping away the heaviness and formality of traditional men’s clothing to create something that feels softer, less industrial, and sees him featured in a portfolio of emerging menswear designers inHis approach is as technically driven as it is creative.
His desire is to create wardrobe building blocks; ‘clean, clear and edited’. A longline duster coat and sheer diaphanous vests and shorts that skim the body are not just emotive, but useful. Shirts and suits, while traditional men’s items, are rethought in deadstock viscose lining, washed so that colours bleed into each other. ‘It’s a laborious process using a humble, simple textile. Washing and hand-cutting made it into something really special.
The concept of time is of particular fascination for Cuming. Although labour intensive, his clothes feel almost ephemeral, passing wisps of moments that can’t quite be grasped. ‘The idea of decay and ageing is really what I love to see in garments,’ he says. His A/W 2022 collection was inspired by his own adolescence and the clothes of his childhood.
His ethos intuitively reflects a shift towards softness and fluidity that is flourishing not just in menswear but throughout global culture. For Cuming, it’s important his clothes stay open to interpretation. ‘We found early on that a lot of women were relating to the pieces, as well as a niche group of male consumers,’ he says, noting how his silhouettes fall on the body. ‘Now there is a bigger market for people who want something a bit more sensitive.
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