Escalopes, Red Sauce, and Tiramisu at London’s Best Time-Honoured Italian Restaurants

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Escalopes, Red Sauce, and Tiramisu at London’s Best Time-Honoured Italian Restaurants
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Escalopes, red sauce, and tiramisu — the latest guide from Isaac Rangaswami of Caffs Not Cafes, celebrating London’s time-honoured Italian restaurants

It’s easy to forget that liver is the friendliest member of the offal family: basically a soft steak, not that different from pate or an earthy hunk of butter. Almost every old-school Italian spot in London serves some sort of fegato

variant, but Caprini is one of the safest bets to eat it, mainly because the place attracts a crowd that still orders it regularly. The restaurant’s cheerful, middle-aged customer base, who come here to reminisce about holidays in Torino and get a bit pissed, appear to have been eating in Caprini since the Thatcher years. But the restaurant’s even older than its interior suggests — it opened in 1946, while London was still recovering from the Blitz. So get a plate of juicy, grill-marked organ meat, a glass of house red, and raise a toast to one of the oldest Italian restaurants in London.

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