A new exhibition in Helsinki (28 October 2022 – 9 April 2023) highlights the bold and bright creations of Finnish textile artist Vuokko Nurmesniemi and her equally talented husband Antti, Wallpaper* visits the designers’ house in Kulosaari
A new exhibition in Helsinki highlights the bold and bright creations of Finnish textile artist Vuokko Nurmesniemi and her equally talented husband Antti, Wallpaper* visits the designers’ house in Kulosaari
Today, the poppy print Unikko is the most familiar of Marimekko’s designs, but the brand was already famous by the time it was launched in 1964, thanks to the entrepreneurial force of its female founder Armi Ratia and her young designer and Vuokko Nurmesniemi. Their unstructured dresses and unisex shirts and overalls, printed with stripes, zigzags and ovals in pink and orange and blue and green, brought colour and joy to a dark, depressed country struggling after the Second World War.
A ‘Myllynkivi 4-stripes’ dress on display at Vuokko’s Helsinki boutique. Based on the 1964 Pyörre pattern, the unstructured garment forms a circle when the wearer raises her hands. In 1964, Vuokko started her eponymous label. First up was the ‘Myllynkivi’ dress, a circle of fabric in green, pink, yellow and red stripes. It was radical, and a huge hit.
‘Vuokko knew her value,’ Hirvonen points out. ‘She was the only female designer making clothing who was so famous internationally.’ Antti, too, was well known, having created the orange rolling stock for the Helsinki metro and furniture for the Palace Hotel on Helsinki’s waterfront. And he was extremely well-connected. The Nurmesniemis travelled the world, won prizes, threw parties, and hosted the likes of Charles and Ray Eames in Kulosaari.
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