The size of the non-alcoholic beer industry has risen by 60% in five years to $8bn, according to Euromonitor International, a research firm
and Africa, are the two biggest markets. Many brewers now make booze-free counterparts to their flagship brands. Some, including America’s Athletic Brewing, sell nothing but non-alcoholic beer. How are these drinks made, and what explains their growing success?
First, a definition. “Non-alcoholic” beer can in fact contain alcohol: up to around 0.5% according to American and European rules. But the offerings from many big brands claim to be completely alcohol-free. To get there, brewers use a “de-alcoholising” process. They begin by brewing their beer in the normal fashion , before gently boiling off the ethanol.
De-alcoholisation is expensive: ten years ago Paulaner spent €4m installing an evaporator. Power and upkeep add to the cost. Some craft brewers opt for a cheaper method, arresting or slowing fermentation before the yeast converts the sugars in their wort to ethanol, so that the final product contains 0.5% alcohol or less. But these methods are trickier to get right than de-alcoholisation: brews can easily be too sweet or too watery.
When done right, both approaches can pay off. Today’s non-alcoholic beers are far tastier than the insipid brews of yesteryear. But in America non-alcoholic beer has had to overcome not only flavour challenges but a huge image problem, says Garrett Oliver, the master brewer of Brooklyn Brewery. To opt for a booze-free bottle was often taken as a sign of a drinking problem.
That seems to be changing. More than 80% of people who buy non-alcoholic versions of drinks like beer also buy booze, according to Nielsen, another research firm. The American market, though small, is growing rapidly: between 2018 and 2022 the total volume of non-alcoholic beer sold there increased by 92%, according to Euromonitor. This year Heineken 0.0, the country’s bestseller, will run a 30-second Super Bowl ad.
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