In praise of subterfuge, an underappreciated culinary skill

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In praise of subterfuge, an underappreciated culinary skill
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles,Belgique Actualités
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Parents know this trick well. Grating courgette into pasta sauce is a good way to add vegetables to the diets of picky youngsters. Donald Trump’s doctor in the White House also used this ruse, getting cauliflower mixed into his patient’s mashed potatoes. But for most grown-ups, the ingredient that requires disguise is meat.

And though some gourmets may revile hot dogs, they are a triumph of culinary subterfuge, as are many other sausages. Butchers developed this skill of necessity. The first, say, three-quarters of cutting up an animal for consumption—hams, ribs, loin, belly—is relatively straightforward. But what to do with the organs and other unappetising scraps?

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