Charting Helmut Newton’s trailblazing career
Timed to coincide with Newton’s centenary last year, but delayed because of Covid, the show is laid out chronologically, allowing visitors to stroll through the different chapters of Newton’s life and career. This begins with his early years in Berlin, where he worked as an apprentice to the famed fashion photographer Yva, and ends with his death in the 2000s, until which point the octogenarian Newton was still in high demand, making startlingly inventive portraits and fashion imagery.
Featuring some 300 works, the exhibition is a chance to revisit some of Newton’s greatest hits – from his cooly insouciant 1975 shot for Frenchtrouser suit, worn by an androgynous, dandy-channelling model on a Paris street; through to his brilliantly contemporary take on Velázquez’sfrom 1981, which sees the nude goddess’s mirror replaced by a TV monitor.
A sweetly candid portrait of his wife June Newton, smoking at the kitchen table, bare-breasted after dinner, is included in the show, and marks Newton’s first nude. From there, things get decidedly more raunchy, as the photographer begins his probing of social and moral boundaries with endless depictions of sexually and physically empowered women.
This work appears towards the end of the show, beneath a wall quote from Newton, declaring, “I am not an artist, I’m a photographer”. Even so, the entire exhibition appears to retort, fashion photography has rarely looked so artful.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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