'There are a million opportunities to cut corners, pre-prepare, let things get tired. It doesn’t happen once'
Do you, I say, sliding another baton of that salty, browned and bubbled Hellim cheese between two slices of pide and now taking a bite through its crisp exterior. Make this. Erm. Bread. Umm. In here? “Me?” asks Batuhan, our excellent but bashful young waiter whose name I will see printed on the bill and note later this cold but bright lunchtime.
screens at the rear of Eda. Huh, I grunt, thinking this is so like a very great focaccia, but with sesame seed, it’s uncanny.But saying out loud: well, mwah, it’s very good. And with that I turn my attention more fully to the Muska, those triangular spinach and feta pastries that in here, anyway, are light, delicious, tangy. Oops, I’ve just eaten all four.
There will be another golden moment when the Tavuk Iskender arrives and I taste first the little garnish of shredded salad and discover, as I suspected I would, that the cabbage, lettuce, onion yada-yada is not only lightly dressed in lemon and oil but, hallelujah, seasoned too. I eat it all. Only we British still don’t realise salad has to seasoned, says I anyway, veteran of a thousand dry, tasteless and bone-lazy, technically incompetent, restaurant garnishes. Pfft.
Now it’s slap, bang in the middle of culinary nowhere in an area that has fallen so completely off the edge of Planet Shopping that it lies in that sometimes scary demi-world, called, I think, the zone of transition. Where it has been ignored by dafties like myself who see big windows and think small ambitions.
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