For her Autumn/Winter 2023 Dior collection, the designer went back to the 1950s, presenting a collection that was at once familiar but different
“How can we go back to something familiar, but make it different?” That was the taskshow. It seems to be an idea many designers are grappling with this season – a season which, more than any in recent memory, has been focused around the actuality of clothing, the liveable reality. Which often means lots of black trouser suits, and quite a bit of brown – brown, it seems, is the new black. But Dior is a different matter: the familiar, chez Dior, is the 1950s, and Paris.
That said, it was also a big old love affair with Paris, ideological and literal. The former came in the whiff of Saint Germain about the inky pencil dresses and socks and slingback, the chicness of pulled-together looks, handbag nestled in the crook of the arm, that semaphores postwar Parisienne; the latter in stuff like a print of a map of Paris , and dangling charms of the Tour Eiffel and Arc de Triomphe. And Paris actually does mean Dior, as that map indicates.
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