The craft in Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’s Autumn/Winter 2023 women’s collection – debuted last week at Milan Fashion Week – was expressive of the care embedded in the best fashion, writes Alexander Fury
So, Prada and Simons chose this moment to celebrate those who take care in the world – their dresses inspired by uniforms were not a fetishisation of everyday clothing, but rather a celebration of the meaning behind the cloth. The nurse’s uniform, for instance, is a visual shorthand for healing and wellbeing, an aesthetic reassurance; the neckties and epauletted shirts of security personnel semaphore safety.
Taking care doesn’t only imply love, but also protection. Some dresses and skirts were puffed with down padding, other crafted from leathers and suedes inspired by the protective aprons of industrial workers – they formed armour for the strife of today. You may also argue, of course, that the armour is ideological as well as literal, philosophical protection, the notion of being correctly attired, and also clothes with the care and attention of others.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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