This dramatic train journey into a polar world takes in fjords, glaciers and icy mountain peaks
When I wake the landscape has beefed up considerably. We’re now in Trøndelag county, a stretch of wild, ragged cliffs and dark spruce forests that look like the sort of place where Beowulf followed Grendel back to his lair. At Namsskogan, we stop climbing and level out into birch forest carpeted with russet-coloured fern, the river beside us a mass of white-water rapids.
About 300km into the epic route, the drama builds with Wagneresque urgency as the Vefsnfjord fans into a tranquil watery plain, laced in patches of turquoise and backdropped by jagged blue mountains growing steadily in stature. The climax of this journey, though, is the 700m climb into Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park, a lunarscape of rock, snow and majestic mountains. The largest windows to take in the icy panorama are in the toasty café, but more atmospheric is to take in the receding train track by walking to the tail end of the train.
As the snowy flanks of a nearby mountain blush pink in the dying light, my companion excitedly spots a moose, and a few minutes later a vast herd of reindeer; it feels as if we’ve wandered into a children’s storybook. For the remainder of the route, the train descends into valleys and hugs the fjord till we reach the terminus and coastal town of Bodø.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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