'It’s so different to European cuisine, there are secrets.'
Paparazzi don’t tend to swarm to Levenshulme - no massive necessity, really - but back when Malanie Tillekeratne worked at Scott’s in Mayfair, she’d have to scrap her way through the scrum on a regular basis as she left work of an evening. Paps would gather at the upscale fish restaurant, where Malanie worked as a pastry chef, to catch a glimpse of some of the celebrities who would be sucking down oysters and champagne inside.
“Sri Lankans are very welcoming people, and her mum welcomed me straight away,” he says. “10 years ago, I had no idea about Sri Lankan food, I knew a little about the history, but nothing about the food. My background was classic French and Italian food. When she cooked for me for the first time, it was incredible. I remember thinking I must learn how to do this. I was completely blown away.”
“I re-learned a lot of these things too, like from when I’d help my mum cook for parties at home growing up. We were put to work, and learned a lot. I remember those dishes and watching her cook. When my parents came here in the 70s, they had a little side business to make some extra money, making cutlets and patties. We’re a cooking family. It’s just what we do.”
They also started regularly plotting up at Levenshulme’s food market, when it reopened post-lockdown, doing breville-style Sri Lankan-inspired toasties stuffed with delights like red chicken curry and beef smore, a pot roasted beef but with the added western twist of Lancashire cheese. A dazzling selection of curries followed; a fried pork belly curry, pleasingly not shy with the fat, and slow-cooked with tamarind, cinnamon and dark, roasted curry spices. There was a butternut squash and mustard curry, soothing with coconut milk, and a classic parippu, a restorative dhal of red lentils and rampe , the fragrant pandan leaves.
Belgique Dernières Nouvelles, Belgique Actualités
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