“There was an irony to drawing what’s under the clothes that I found quite funny,” says Steve O Smith of his designs, which render the body emotionally in black and white
Steve O Smith stands in his kitchen-turned-design studio at home in north London, leafing through a few slightly tattered sketchbooks from a stacked archive of works. Inside the pages, his intuitive black acrylic and pencil drawings only sometimes resemble figures, other times they’re a little more abstract. “These five sketchbooks here I did in about two weeks, or in a week maybe,” he says, nonchalantly. “In a day I can do about 100 drawings, but I don’t keep them all.
Among these drawings are visions for garments – they’re each a trial or an error, they’re markings that hold a loose, unique idea for clothing. “When I last spoke to Fabio [Piras, MA Fashion course leader at Central Saint Martins], he said, ‘You know, you’re not the first designer to make their drawings.’ And it’s true. It’s actually quite ironic because it is exactly what most people do.
, Picasso, Willem de Kooning and George Grosz decorate the walls of his flat – it was George Cruikshank’s 1820s series, a satire of the era’s excessive fashions, that formed the basis to his MA collection. Surveying through their work in books at the library, Smith took on their emotional, spontaneous style, “then I disregarded them all, and I started doing my own drawings.”The inspiration for Smith’s new collection,in AnOther Magazine’s most recent Spring/Summer 2023 issue.
The work caught the attention of stylist Harry Lambert, who offered to style the new collection – his first since his graduating collection was presented just over a year ago. The striking new lookbook lensed by Daniel Archer sees the models become the drawings, captured in front of a draped sheet of paper, and bringing to life the acrylic and pencil etchings that serve as their inspiration. The process is highly emotional.
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