Diana’s varsity sweaters and logo jumpers were a symbol of her growing independence and also a mode of self-protection.
Holed up in Kensington Palace away from the curtain twitchers scrutinising her every move, Diana becomes a free agent when it comes to fashion. Out with the pearl twin sets and in with the modern hoop earrings! Stuffy tailoring? She’s a Levi’s woman now.
Paired with those high-waisted, stone-washed jeans and flowy, comfy pleated skirts were oversized cricket jumpers, varsity sweaters and crew-necks emblazoned with the charitable causes she held dear. While logo pullovers aretoday, using clothes to send a message was not as common back then – especially for a royal figurehead. Even now, you would never see Kate, the modern-day Princess of Wales, wearing a branded tee or knit that implies her political or personal inclinations.
The much-copied polo outfit, complete with that British Lung Foundation pullover that spoke a thousand words.Brendan Beirne/Shutterstock But behind this fashion-forward persona was a woman who also used louche silhouettes and enrobing sweaters as a form of physical protection. It was years later that Diana, a victim of bulimia, had the confidence to wear Versace’s athletic-looking tank dresses and shirts tucked into belted slim-cut denim.
Next time you’re watching Debicki perfect the head tilt and hurt eyes of a woman she says “broke the fourth wall and reaped the benefits [before] the consequences came hard and heavy”, know that none of the things Diana wore, particularly those jumpers, were just clothes.
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