London essential Chishuru leaves Brixton this weekend, for a new home in 2023
, thanks to the in-and-out cycle of lockdowns and tiers occasioned by the COVID-19 pandemic. The closures meant she could not take full advantage
Those 42 days still proved to be pivotal not just for Bakare, but for London’s restaurant world as a whole: they established Chishuru as one of the most exciting, coveted, and consistent places to eat in the city., introducing a set menu structure at both lunch and dinner to counter rising cost pressures, and broadening a portfolio of exciting dishes that engage in West African culinary traditions without being straitjacketed by them.
But with popularity comes with logistical difficulty, and the diminutive restaurant — which contributes so much to its atmosphere — has become unavoidably restrictive over time. Bakare and Chishuru’s trajectory is only on the up, and her move will be the next step in the evolution of one of the city’s best restaurants.