This narrow, rocky path is the last open route between Russia and Ukraine

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This narrow, rocky path is the last open route between Russia and Ukraine
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A trickle of refugees from occupied territory crosses into Sumy each day

n April 2022, after the Russian army had pulled back from Kyiv, Dima, a man in his late 40s with flinty blue eyes, banded together with some acquaintances to form a volunteer organisation. They called it Pluriton after a pet supply company owned by one of the members. The group decided to head to Donbas, a region in the east of the country, where the Russians were mounting a new offensive. They supplied aid to people, rescued abandoned dogs and evacuated those who wanted to leave.

The crossing point at Sumy was opened in the early months of the invasion as a humanitarian corridor through which the two sides could exchange prisoners-of-war and the bodies of dead soldiers. For reasons that are unclear, the Russians allowed some civilians to pass through too. Many travel by car but there are also companies that run bus services from occupied Ukraine to various European destinations for a fare of $250-450, according to adverts on Telegram, a messaging platform. One, called Lux Express, offers a 50% discount to children under 12 years old, as well as hot drinks, meals, WiFi and comfortable seats. Routes are offered to Warsaw, Prague and cities in Germany.

“You can’t call an ambulance or the fire department; houses that are shelled just burn to the ground. Sometimes there is no electricity for a week” “I am 52,” she said, “I am afraid of having to start all over again. I can’t imagine how I will do it. All I can do is cry and it’s just embarrassing”

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