The HTSI beauty columnist’s expert guide to ascorbic acid
Alongside sunscreen and retinol, vitamin C should be an essential part of every skincare routine – year round, and regardless of skin type. It is a powerful antioxidant that delivers multiple benefits from photoprotection and anti-ageing to brightening and anti-pigmentation.
First and foremost it addresses hyper-pigmentation by restricting the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase , thus inhibiting melanin synthesis, lightening the uneven pigmentation, and leading to a brighter complexion.Skincare brands are also keen to tell us of vitamin C’s superhero-like abilities to fight free-radical damage. Everyday solar radiation, pollution and smoking can cause oxidative stress, and skin can no longer protect itself when environmental free radicals outweigh the antioxidants.
To be effective, serum must contain between 8 and 20 per cent vitamin C. Those below 8 per cent won’t deliver meaningful results. And studies show that serums above 20 per cent might cause irritation – plus higher concentration doesn’t increase its effectiveness. I’d suggest choosing one that sits in the Goldilocks zone of 10 to 20 per cent.
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