Anthony Vaccarello's best menswear collection to date, writes Alexander Fury
It was undeniably spectacular: in the Agafay desert at the base of the Atlas mountains just outside Marrakech,defied nature and erected its own oasis, a watering-pool in a circle of light. A dust storm had, moments before, blustered through the city, making the air haze a pinkish beige that leaked out into the desert, filtering the light and making it all look a bit like a mirage.
Those three words summarise this Saint Laurent menswear collection, the fourth that creative director Anthony Vaccarello has presented stand-alone in environs across the world engineered to wow. With any fashion house, that strategy can always cause a tussle between context and clothes, a jostle for attention – where to look first? Vaccarello was canny: rather than creating clothes inspired by Morocco, he almost reacted against it.
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Morocco’s Agafay desert provides the backdrop for Saint Laurent’s latest menswear collectionMarrakech was a place of spiritual escape and inspiration for Yves Saint Laurent in his lifetime. This past weekend, current Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello returned to Morocco for an awe-inspiring S/S 2023 menswear show held in the ...
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