Camellias formed the basis of Virginie Viard’s Autumn/Winter 2023 Chanel collection, which centred and celebrated a flower that is inextricably tied to the house
, Alexandre Dumas fils’ semi-autobiographical novel charting his love affair with the courtesan Marie Duplessis, is the most famous example of the flower – outside the realm of Chanel, that is. Dumas fils’ heroine Marguerite Gautier is nicknamed ‘the lady of the camellias’ due to the fact she wears a red camellia when she is menstruating, and white when she is available to her gentleman callers.
Flowers were woven into fabrics as two-dimensional pattern, or seemed to push through as three-dimensional appliqué growing from under the fabric of knits and tweeds. They clasped handbags, or sometimes formed the entire shape of a dancing minaudière, which jackets were cut with curved panels, like petals opening around the body. You could also argue that the silky softness of the flower found reflection in the slithery surfaces of chiffons and charmeuses – but that would be a reach.
The colours, however, were clipped straight from a bouquet: white, pale pink, a rich, bloated red, all contrasted with graphic black and grey. Viard reasoned that she liked the strength and the softness of the camellia – which translated to a play on masculine and feminine, always at the heart of Chanel.
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